Toronto Wildlife Centre

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Frequently Asked Questions About Raccoons

I found a baby raccoon--can I care for it myself?
I found a raccoon den and/or babies in an inconvenient or dangerous area. Can I move it/them to a better area?
There's a raccoon/raccoon family living in my attic/shed/under my deck. How can I get rid of it/them?
What are the health risks related to handling raccoons?
There are raccoons living in my yard-is this a health risk to me?
There's a raccoon in my yard-could it have rabies?
I've seen a raccoon outside during the day. Does that mean it's sick?
I've seen a raccoon outside that seems lethargic or tired. Could it be simply coming out of hibernation, or disoriented because it's daytime?
There's a raccoon stuck in a tree/on a rooftop or balcony/on a pole. What should I do?
There's a raccoon sleeping on my balcony/deck. Is this normal?
There's a raccoon that comes through my yard that seems bold/unafraid of me. Will it attack?
There's a raccoon defecating on my deck/lawn constantly. How do I make it stop?
Help—my question wasn’t answered here!
How do I choose a wildlife removal company?

1. I found a baby raccoon--can I care for it myself?

Baby raccoons will always receive the best care from their parents, even though to us, life in the wild may seem dangerous for them. Before intervening with any baby, make sure it is actually orphaned by following the links under “Orphaned or Abandoned Animal”.

If the baby is in need of help, it is important for several reasons that the baby receives professional care from a wildlife rehabilitator if it is to be raised in captivity. Baby raccoons have very specific dietary requirements. Because these babies grow so rapidly, improper nutrition can cause problems in their development that is not always apparent until it is too late. Wildlife rehabilitators trained to raise baby raccoons are able to provide species appropriate food, and the right kind of care facilities (e.g. access to large, secluded outdoor cages to exercise and develop normal behaviours before release).

In addition, baby raccoons MUST be raised along side other baby raccoons and with minimal contact with any other species (including humans) in order to develop normal social behaviours that enable them to survive in the wild. Raccoons that do not learn how to fear and avoid predators, for example, and communicate with others of their species, have a poor chance of survival and can even become a threat to humans and other animals.

Lastly, raccoons present a number of risks to caregivers without the proper training, facilities, and vaccinations. Raccoons can carry the rabies virus, and while risk of exposure to the virus via a sick raccoon extremely low for most people, those with regular direct contact with raccoons are at a higher risk. Although the virus is rare, it nearly always fatal, thus making it a serious concern for caregivers without a rabies vaccination. A more common risk is from an intestinal parasite most raccoons carry known as raccoon roundworm (Baylisascaris procyonis). This parasite is harmless to raccoons, but has the potential to be harmful-and even fatal-to other species, including humans. The parasite is transmitted through ingesting the eggs of the roundworm, which are present in raccoon feces. Transmission to humans is extremely unlikely unless there is direct handling of raccoons and/or their feces. People that regularly handle raccoons or their feces are in the highest risk category.

Because of their specific requirements, Toronto Wildlife Centre does not recommend trying to care for raccoons without proper training in wildlife rehabilitation, appropriate permits, and the resources and facilities required to meet the needs of the babies and give them a fair chance at survival after release. Raccoons are provincially protected and it is also against the law to care for them without proper permits.

What if I just keep the baby as a pet?

2. I found a raccoon den and/or babies in an inconvenient or dangerous area. Can I move it/them to a better area?

Moving raccoon babies to a new location will orphan the young. Even if babies are moved with their mother it is unlikely that she will continue to care for them in the new location. Additionally, relocating an adult raccoon will place the animal in a new territory where it would be at an extreme disadvantage-in addition to it being against the law to relocate wildlife, relocated animals often do not survive in their "new" territory. Raccoons commonly den in busy urban and suburban areas, and tend to do even better in these areas-where there is ample food and shelter-than more remote "natural" habitat.

It is, however, sometimes possible to encourage raccoon families to relocate on their own when they have denned in inconvenient areas. See FAQ "There's a raccoon family living in my attic..." for more information.

It is also possible, when assistance is needed in moving a raccoon family, to hire a humane wildlife removal company. The consumer must be cautious of unprofessional or inhumane organizations, however. Toronto Wildlife Centre recommends Gates' Wildlife Control as the best option for both the animal and consumer's benefit. If you choose to hire a different company, please call our Wildlife Hotline at (416) 631-0662. We can suggest screening questions you might ask potential companies to ensure you are receiving proper service.

3. There's a raccoon/raccoon family living in my attic/shed/under my deck. How can I get rid of it/them?

Typically raccoons only use den sites in the spring and summer when raising their young, so any raccoon inhabiting a space like this during that time should be assumed to be part of a family, even if only one raccoon is seen.

Often, the best course of action is to do nothing at all. Raccoons typically inhabit den sites for short periods. They seek dens in the summer, when they rear their young, and in winter, during cold spells. Raccoon babies are independent by the end of summer, when they leave the den and disperse from their family groups. Raccoons do not present a threat to people, and if the minor inconveniences of their presence can be tolerated, it is easiest to simply wait until they leave naturally and then close off the area to prevent future use of the den site.

If you want to hasten a raccoon's departure from an active den, we suggest using sight-sound-smell harassment at the opening to the den. This method should ideally be applied in October and November, after most babies are weaned and before the weather gets too cold. (Unless absolutely necessary, neither this or any other exclusion method should be used in the May to September period, when young babies may be inside the den, since it is possible that an evicted mother might abandon or become separated from her babies, causing them to die inside the den. However, most raccoon mothers will relocate themselves and their babies to an alternate den site when threatened.) Place the following items near the hole:

A bright light. A motion-activated light is ideal, but any powerful light will do. If the light is used near a structure, you may wish to enclose it in a wire cage so that it doesn't come into contact with flammable material.

A radio. Tune the radio to an all-talk station-the sound of human voices is threatening to raccoons. The radio should be as loud as possible, but does not have to be so loud that it keeps you or your neighbours awake.

Urine soaked rags/urine soaked cat litter. Wild animals often use urine to mark their territories. Raccoons are threatened by the smell of another animal's urine outside their den. Place rags or cat litter soaked in urine near the entrance to the den, and replenish it daily. Alternatively, you may use a rag soaked in ammonia. Ammonia-soaked rags should be placed in a plastic bag punched with small holes to allow the smell to escape. (This barrier not only helps to keep the rags from drying out but limits the animals' direct exposure to ammonia, which can be toxic.).

These sensory harassments should be used at night, when raccoons are most active. Continue them for three consecutive nights, all night long. Sometime during this period the raccoon will probably relocate itself and its family to a new home. After three days, remove the harassments and check to make sure the raccoons are no longer using the den by taping a piece of newspaper over top of the entrance hole. Check the newspaper daily for 3 days in a row-if it is undisturbed for that period of time and there are no sounds coming from inside the den, it is safe to close the hole without worry of trapping animals inside. Seal the hole by bolting down 1/2" wire mesh (also called hardware cloth) overtop. This material is available at hardware stores.

4. What are the health risks related to handling raccoons?

Raccoons that are in need of rescue, even young babies that appear healthy, should not be handled directly. Raccoons are common hosts to an intestinal parasite known as raccoon roundworm (Baylisascaris procyonis). This parasite is harmless to raccoons, but has the potential to be harmful-and even fatal-to other species, including humans. The parasite is transmitted through ingesting the eggs of the roundworm, which are present in raccoon feces. Transmission to humans is extremely unlikely unless there is direct handling of raccoons and/or their feces. People that regularly handle raccoons without protective hand wear and proper hygiene are in the highest risk category. Additionally, raccoons are considered a transmitter species for the rabies virus in Ontario, and even though this virus is very rare and transmission is unlikely, every precaution against the disease should be taken because of its serious effects-rabies is nearly always fatal in affected individuals.

5. There are raccoons living in my yard--is this a health risk to me?

No. Although raccoon feces can carry a parasite that is potentially harmful to other species (including humans), the risk of transmission is very low without high exposure to that feces. Some examples of high exposure might be a child directly eating the feces-which would present risks regardless of which species had produced the feces-or people who regularly handle raccoons without taking proper precautions. Raccoons are one of our most common backyard animals in Ontario, and with a little tolerance on both parts, can co-exist well with humans.

6. There's a raccoon in my yard-could it have rabies?

Although raccoons can contract rabies, this virus is very rare. Most raccoons that appear sick or injured, including raccoons that are disoriented or losing balance (which can be signs of rabies), are suffering from other types of injuries or illnesses. In addition, the rabies virus can only be contracted through a bite or scratch from an animal showing active symptoms of the disease, at which point they are noticeably ill. To prevent any possibility of being bitten, never handle a sick raccoon directly. If you have found a raccoon you think may be sick or injured, choose "Sick or Injured Animal" from the main menu and follow the links.

7. I've seen a raccoon outside during the day. Does that mean it's sick?

It is a common misconception that raccoons that are seen outside during the day are sick or have rabies. Although they are primarily nocturnal, even healthy raccoons will sometimes come out during the day to forage if they feel it is safe to do so or if they are unable to return to their den. Baby raccoons are also commonly seen outside during the day.

8. I've seen a raccoon outside that seems lethargic or tired. Could it be simply coming out of hibernation, or disoriented because it's daytime?

It is NEVER normal behaviour for a raccoon to exhibit symptoms like loss of balance, difficulty walking or lethargy. It is a common misconception that raccoons out during the day will appear disoriented because they are nocturnal animals. An adult raccoon behaving in this way at any time of day is definitely in need of help. Young baby raccoons whose bodies are less than 12"/30 cm long may be unsteady on their feet as a result of age, but should be active.

9. There's a raccoon stuck in a tree/on a rooftop or balcony/on a pole. What should I do?

It rarely happens that adult Raccoons are truly "stuck" on top of a structure. They are excellent climbers, able to shimmy up tree trunks and even textured brick walls. However, raccoons are also cautious animals, and typically will not come down until they feel safe doing so, which is often not until the middle of the night. It would be typical for a raccoon to remain in a "protected" area (off the ground) for the entire day. If the raccoon shows no signs of being physically trapped (i.e, struggling in one spot), monitor the animal periodically through the day and night (to ensure the raccoon is not leaving at night and returning to the same spot in the morning and therefore only appearing to have not moved).

It is not uncommon to encounter raccoons sleeping or simply sitting in trees or on rooftops or balconies during the day. However, a raccoon sleeping in an exposed spot that does not react defensively to people may be sick or injured, e.g. a raccoon sleeping beside a walking path that does not move away when closely approached.

10. There's a raccoon sleeping on my balcony/deck. Is this normal?

It is normal for raccoons to pick a spot that seems "safe" (or did when they chose it) to sleep for the day. Unless there is some immediate need for the raccoon to leave, it is usually best to do nothing-the raccoon will typically leave at some point during the night. If, however, the raccoon is in a very exposed area (such as the middle of a deck, or at ground level), or is non-responsive (does not lift head or growl when gently prodded with a broom), or has been in the same spot for 24 hours day and night, it may be sick and should be assessed by a Wildlife Rehabilitator.

11. There's a raccoon that comes through my yard that seems bold/unafraid of me. Will it attack?

As a result of their cautious and curious nature, raccoons are often perceived to be bold. A raccoon's usual initial reaction when confronted by a person (if they are at a safe distance) is to stop and observe-they may not attempt escape unless the threat becomes more acute (i.e., the person approaches more closely). Despite this perceived boldness, raccoons do have a natural fear of people and a physically and mentally healthy raccoon would not attack a human unprovoked.

12. There's a raccoon defecating on my deck/lawn constantly. How do I make it stop?

Rather than soiling their den areas, raccoons establish "latrine" sites where they will defecate repeatedly. This often leads to conflict with homeowners as raccoons often favour dry, textured terrain provided by decks and rooftops, or residential lawns. Callers can encourage raccoons to move change latrine sites by altering the terrain to make it less appealing. Because raccoons prefer textured areas where they can get good footing, it is often effective to cover the latrine area with a piece of plastic-raccoons dislike walking on smooth slippery surfaces. Using nails or tape, attach over the latrine site a large sheet of painters plastic, or garbage bags snapped open (so one side of the garbage bag slips against the other when flat on the ground). If the fecal deposits are on the ground, over-water the area so it becomes muddy and slippery until the behaviour stops. Another technique is to purchase a motion-sensitive sprinkler (commonly sold under the trade name "Scarecrow" at hardware stores) and place it close to the latrine site-when attached to a hose, these devices will spray any animal that comes near the site with an unpleasant blast of water.

13. Help—my question wasn’t answered here!

Call our Wildlife Hotline for further advice at (416) 631-0662. The Humane Society of the United States (HSUS) website also provides a wealth of information about urban wildlife, and additionally has print materials available on resolving human-wildlife conflicts. See http://www.hsus.org/wildlife/.

14. How do I choose a wildlife removal company?

Because professional wildlife removal practices are not very strictly monitored, it is up to the consumer to ask questions about a company’s practices before hiring them. A good wildlife removal company should demonstrate the following characteristics:

Willingness to listen to and look at the problem encountered by the client and provide an individualized plan of action and price estimate before the client is required to commit.

A focus on long-term solutions, such as fixing all potential entry points (as opposed to simply removing animals).

At least a one-year guarantee of their work.

Knowledge of wildlife behaviours, such as when babies will likely be present for each species and potential wildlife access points around the home.

A "release-on-site" policy for any denning animals that are live-trapped (never hire a company that relocates animals as this is illegal and harmful to the animals). Entrances to the den site should be secured by the company immediately after animals are removed.

Visual inspection for the presence of babies (e.g., in attics or other confined spaces) whenever possible.

Frequent monitoring of live-traps (at least twice daily) or agreement with homeowner to do frequent monitoring.

Availability and willingness to return at any time to removal site in case of emergency (i. e., animals trapped inside a structure due to exclusion, or animals caught in a humane live trap).

If willing to do removal of babies, a high success rate in reuniting parents with babies.

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